A few miles north of the Potomac River, near the end of a lazy, meandering road that bisects acres of farmland, a destination awaits. Slow down or you might miss the inviting white sign that reads “The Crossvines: dining, winemaking, golf, events.”
What almost presents as a mirage in an otherwise underdeveloped region is a long awaited partnership between two major influencers in Montgomery County that will directly benefit Maryland grape and fruit growers, AGNR students, and the Agricultural Preserve—a conservation policy established in 1980 that protects 93,000 acres of farmland equaling one third of the county’s total land.
The seed of an idea was planted 10 years ago during a brainstorm between Marc Elrich, the current county executive for Montgomery County, and Keith Miller, chief executive officer for the Montgomery County Revenue Authority. They were talking specifically about the business of wine; how to prop up the wine industry in Montgomery County, which, if given support, could subsequently bolster the sustainability of the Agricultural Preserve.
What Elrich and Miller lacked in viticulture and enology experience was offset by deep connections
in the field and an established location for their venture, an old golf course clubhouse owned by the Revenue Authority with a claim to fame as the building in the music video for Hootie and the Blowfish’s hit song I Only Wanna Be With You. They quickly reached out to Joe Fiola, principal agent and viticulture specialist with UME, and Kevin Atticks, then executive director of the Maryland Wineries Association, for industry and academic guidance.
That meeting helped give rise to a full-fledged business plan with a three-pronged mission: to bolster grape research, provide viticulture and enology education to producers and UMD students, and offer a wine production facility with state-of-the-art equipment as a low-cost alternative for farmers operating within the Agricultural Preserve and around the state.
“If we don’t get the farmers more activated in Montgomery County, there is a fear that developers may come in and build on this great Agricultural Preserve asset that we have here,” said Miller.
We have an opportunity to make The Crossvines the gateway to agri-tourism in the county. We are also excited to help bring University of Maryland students out to gain hands-on experience in fermentation science here at this facility.”
A Passionate Pursuit
If there’s one thing Joe Fiola wants you to know about him, it’s that he is more the grape guy than the wine guy.
“Wine is my passion, but grapes are my professional pursuit. I’m here to help growers produce better grapes so they can be made into world class wines.”
He considers the opportunity to work in this field a blessing and believes that his passion for wine helps elevate his work. This formidable combination has made Fiola somewhat of a statewide celebrity.
It’s difficult to have a conversation about Maryland viticulture without mentioning his name, and he will play a critical role in the ongoing operation and success of The Crossvines.
As UME’s Viticulture and Small Fruit Specialist, Fiola concentrates on variety testing, including clonal comparisons (a cutting taken from an existing grapevine which is grafted onto rootstock), and new and imported varieties. He works with vineyard and winery owners to increase production and improve quality and is committed to expanding the wine industry in Maryland through his comprehensive research and Extension programming. On property at The Crossvines, Fiola will manage a research and demonstration vineyard that includes a combination of varieties, clones, and rootstocks that will be an open classroom for growers in the Agricultural Preserve and the region.
“Our demonstration plot will enable growers to look at the relative vigor of the clone and rootstock combinations, help discern best management practices, and see critical components like disease resistance, relative harvest season, and uniformity of ripening of the clones,” Fiola said. “Ultimately, they will be able to taste the wine after processing the grapes here at The Crossvines, and they can mix clones based on wine expression and vine performance. I hope to help Maryland vineyard owners make some great wines.”
University of Maryland students enrolled in AGNR’s Fermentation Science program will also study under Fiola and The Crossvines staff in the demonstration vineyard, in the research lab, but most importantly gain hands-on experience in the commercial-scale custom winemaking facility. This will help train them to step right into the industry after graduation.
“If an AGNR student wants to become a commercial winemaker, they can get the necessary training and experience to become familiar with the procedures and equipment right here in this building,” said Fiola.
“Commercial wineries in Maryland are really excited about our program, as they want to bring our local graduates directly into the workforce.”
Just this spring, Fiola’s UME research and demonstration wines won three double gold, four gold, and two silver medals in the Maryland Wine Masters/Comptroller’s Cup Wine Competition. Many of his wines were made with grapes grown on the Eastern Shore, but were competing against grapes grown all across the country. This is very reassuring for statewide growers, signaling a competitive edge and a bright future for Maryland wine.
“If an AGNR student wants to become a commercial winemaker, they can get the necessary training and experience to become familiar with the procedures and equipment right here in this building. Commercial wineries in Maryland are really excited about our program, as they want to bring our local graduates directly into the workforce.“
by Graham Binder : Momentum Magazine Summer 2023
